Passing McAlister Creek, the track levels out and is pretty much flat all the way to four corners. I turn left here to Waterloo Bay. While the track is winding and a little hilly it is well maintained, especially along sections of boardwalk which have been laid over the previous rutted track (thank you parks officers). It is comforting that the whole of this section is monitored by a family of “rock people”.

The track spills onto the beach, and but for the roar of the surf it was almost unexpected. I get my free morning “facial” with a blast of sand; and quickly back track ten metres to chase down my hat. I head south down the beach with cap in backpack. The buffeting is not pleasant, and I walk close to the waterline to minimise the sting of the sand. It is however a moment to admire the ferocity of nature; the power of the wind, crash of the surf, and out to sea the large swell and the expanse of white capped waves.  

At the end of the beach the path goes inland, then up a steep and constant climb, back and forth across the hill face. It is hard work, but each rest allows for a chance to view back across Waterloo Bay, which I am sure would have been much prettier on a sunny day. I meet a couple (friends from Melbourne) who were camping at Little Waterloo. They planned to walk to the lighthouse and back today. He was enthusiastic about the 20km challenge, she not so. “Good luck”. 

Once the trail levels out there are many sections badly overgrown. In places it takes a leap of faith, and I hope that I am going in the right direction, even discounting that the trail is rocky and uneven underneath the dense foliage. I chatted with a park ranger later who said they can’t upgrade the trail without clearance from Department of Natural Heritage, with whom they have had an application pending for some time. I hope it doesn’t take a broken ankle or snake bite for approval to be actioned.

I start getting glimpses of the Lighthouse from rocky outcrops as I get nearer. From the apron of the peninsula to the lighthouse I am completely exposed to the wind, which I would suggest is about gale force now. I stop to explore the “scull rocks”, and have a flashback to “Picnic at Hanging Rock”. Ok, I am a bit more cautious with my clambering. The rest of the track to the top is very steep, but at least it is bitumen. Half way up, I glance ahead and about 2 metres in front of me is a 1.2 metre tiger snake. I don’t know who was more startled, but neither the snake nor I were waiting to pose for photos.

The lighthouse and surrounding buildings have been beautifully maintained. You can book accommodation there if you are willing to hike out. I was planning to have lunch here, and there was a couple of lovely picnic areas but no shelter from the wind. Fortunately a ranger suggested I could eat in the observation room, if I was sure to tidy up (thank you). So, sheltered I sat, listening to the roar of the wind, watching the white capped waves, and pondering the solitude of lighthouse keepers of years past. 

The trail out heads west along the coastline, the sea deep blue and the rocky cliffs steep. When the trail leaves the coast, you can choose the Telegraph Track, or a bush trail. I take the trail, which is narrow, rough and steep in places; but isn’t that what bush walking is supposed to be? The trail crosses the lovely Roaring Meg Creek, which has a wonderfully set camp ground. The trial from here is relatively flat and links onto Telegraph Track short of the Half Way camping area. 

The last section back is dominated by Mt Oberon on your left. It has a huge gash in its side where all the foliage has been removed to show bare rock. I wonder if that happened in the 2011 floods, or has it always been.  I contemplate that it is only a kilometre from the carpark to the peak, but think I will save that for a walk with the grandkids. A short rest at the waterfall, and soon I am back at my car. The walk today was 38kms and took 8 hours. It was wonderful to again commune with nature

Bart Ruyter